Despite repeated attempts, we will probably never get all the technical details for any of Jacques’ wines, and perhaps we’re reaching the point where further questions will only reduce our future allocations. What can be said is that these are the finest Pinots made in Switzerland. While Swiss collectors jealously guard the tiniest of allocations, these wines remain relatively unknown outside the borders of this fiercely independent land. So our inquiry was met with the usual non-committal response to details.
Jacques volunteered that this terroir makes wines with a more Chambolle-like personality while Les Risseux is more Bonnes Mares. Apart from terroir differences, these wines are all made similarly. The vines are always old massale selections that can trace their lineage to when Neuchâtel was part of Burgundy. Yields are naturally low. Harvest is by hand. Fermentations are with whole clusters and native yeasts. Maceration and elevage are dictated mainly by the vintage. And the wines are bottled and released when Jacques feels they are ready. We accept whatever he offers, and they sell out quickly.